I feel drawn to the south. Every time I travel I just feel pulled in this southerly direction and often just happen to end up there. When I went to Germany is was the southern region I stayed in and found most authentic. In Americorps I was stationed in the southern US and at first though I was being sentenced to the land of huge bugs and small minded folks, but it was there my world first began to open. Everyday I felt more and more drawn to that slow southern lifestyle and now often I find myself just longing for a slow Mississippi afternoon. I am drawn to the equator and all that fills the world below it. Ecuador in 2012 was also a life changing trip, one that Mike and I got to share together. When it came time to hike the Colorado Trail south bound was the only option for me. And now we continue our adventure post Colorado Trail and find ourselves heading south yet again to the beautiful Costa Rica.
Landing in San Jose was a bit overwhelming, specifically after having spent 50 days in the back country of Colorado, as soon as you walk out the airport doors you are greeted by at least 100 cab drivers yelling at you to take their ride and trying to escort you. Lucky for us we had something arranged and it was smooth sailing. We rented an extra room in a yoga studio in the heart of downtown and the woman who owned it just let us in and gave us key, nothing better than that kind of autonomy. We got free yoga too! There we met a journalist who had some amazing insights specifically into the murders of environmentalists and Costa Rica's environmental policies vs their actual practices. She was also staying there while her apartment was being finished next door, she took us to the farmers market and had the cutest dog named Chui and gave us some information and cool places to check out along our journey. San Jose gets a bad rap but I cannot see why? It was awesome. We jogged all around and defiantly saw the different parts of town, but never felt eyed or in harms way. Little barrios all over the city were breathing out so much life and energy and creativity. All over, the city seemed to have these little hipster enclaves where micro brews are flowing, art is being made available, and community is so obviously important to the people living and working there. San Jose is stop I wouldn't miss on any Costa Rican adventure, more than 2/3 of the population lives there, the true heart beat of a place is with its people.
After a few days in San Jose it was time to board the bus and begin migrating out into the wild country that is Costa Rica. First stop the Caribbean. We found the bus station and a little Soda (traditional Costa Rican place to eat) open before 6am on the day we left. Mike got a small meal of huevos fritos and gallo pinto and we ventured out to wait in the thick air to catch the bus for a four hour drive south east. The bus station reminded me of Ecuador, so many people hustling and bustling as though they had been awake for hours in an otherwise sleeping city. Vacation goers, gringos, ticos, young and old, mothers and their children all loading up to be shuttled to our varying final destinations all along the same line. The bus seats all felt moist, nothing here ever drys and you stick to everything you sit down on. It took some time to settle in, but once I did the views stunned me and allowed time to pass with ease and as we left San Jose I felt the whole world just slow down around us. The one thing not slowing though was the bus we were on, we arrived less than four hours later in Puerto Viejo: a tropical beach paradise land where the water is always warm and blue, where Bob Marley blasts from all the shop keepers store fronts, beach carts and restaurants, the smell of pineapples, marijuana, chocolate and coconut seem to just linger in the creamy still air, a land where yoga classes seem more frequented than the local children's schools and the main form of transportation is your single speed rusted cruiser bike. Shirts and shoes are optional everywhere and from my observation are often a sign of over dressing in many social situations. The Rastafarian colors wave here almost as frequently as the Costa Rican flags and no one seems in a hurry to do too much at once. The locals seem to be on a perma-vacation, and while I am sure it does not come without struggle and sacrifice it is a very appealing life they do lead looking from the outside in.
We are staying with a lovey family that have an extra small two story cabana tucked back into the jungle on their property just about 7km from the main street area. They have two kids about 10 and 13 and a feisty little dog we have taken to calling el Diablo on account of the fact that it will mock charges us on a whim going for Mikes ankles and five minutes later is doing this adorable spin dance jumpy thing to get attention and love. It is quiet here and so beautiful, the flooring and walls are all hand done mosaics and everything is painted in such beautiful reds and teals and yellows. It is weathered of course, being just across from the ocean and having jungle all around, it takes a beating with sun, rain, mold, bugs etc. Everything smells and looks like it came from a second hand store, nothing here comes brand new I don't think, and if it did it would look very out of place I am sure.
The Caribbean is an amazing place, very different from the rest of the country so we are told, this is a wide spread sentiment that is a source of pride among the people who live here.
The first days we were here the waters were so calm and clear, I am so glad we decided to rent the snorkel gear during this beginning period. I have ocean fears but I managed to get out there and see some fish, it was really cool, and I think I'd do it again. Mike was so nice to hold my hand the whole time.The rest of the time has been spent laying on the beach, swimming in the ocean, drinking beer, eating organic foods and meeting as many people as our limited Spanish will allow. These last few days it has rained each afternoon or evening and the ocean has been much more vigorous. We splurged on ourselves and rented a scooter and drove out about 20km to Cahuita National Park for a full day of hiking along their trails of beaches and protected jungle areas. This area was pristine. We had to cross two small streams along the way and we saw so much wildlife. We saw Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, many types of incredible birds, insects, butterflies, a large colorful Iguana, and countless other smaller lizards. This trip was worth the bumpy roads and the $60 for the scooter for the day. We still have just less than a week left here before we leave and begin our journey inland to a different town which also happens to be called Puerto Viejo, and this is where Mike will run his race. His training has been going well since being off the trail and arriving in Costa Rica and he is acclimating well to this intensely different climate. If all goes well, he'll be a real contender. We are excited and anxious about everything yet to come.
Our eyes are wide and our hearts are open. As always thanks for reading and thanks for your love and support.
Until next time....
After a few days in San Jose it was time to board the bus and begin migrating out into the wild country that is Costa Rica. First stop the Caribbean. We found the bus station and a little Soda (traditional Costa Rican place to eat) open before 6am on the day we left. Mike got a small meal of huevos fritos and gallo pinto and we ventured out to wait in the thick air to catch the bus for a four hour drive south east. The bus station reminded me of Ecuador, so many people hustling and bustling as though they had been awake for hours in an otherwise sleeping city. Vacation goers, gringos, ticos, young and old, mothers and their children all loading up to be shuttled to our varying final destinations all along the same line. The bus seats all felt moist, nothing here ever drys and you stick to everything you sit down on. It took some time to settle in, but once I did the views stunned me and allowed time to pass with ease and as we left San Jose I felt the whole world just slow down around us. The one thing not slowing though was the bus we were on, we arrived less than four hours later in Puerto Viejo: a tropical beach paradise land where the water is always warm and blue, where Bob Marley blasts from all the shop keepers store fronts, beach carts and restaurants, the smell of pineapples, marijuana, chocolate and coconut seem to just linger in the creamy still air, a land where yoga classes seem more frequented than the local children's schools and the main form of transportation is your single speed rusted cruiser bike. Shirts and shoes are optional everywhere and from my observation are often a sign of over dressing in many social situations. The Rastafarian colors wave here almost as frequently as the Costa Rican flags and no one seems in a hurry to do too much at once. The locals seem to be on a perma-vacation, and while I am sure it does not come without struggle and sacrifice it is a very appealing life they do lead looking from the outside in.
We are staying with a lovey family that have an extra small two story cabana tucked back into the jungle on their property just about 7km from the main street area. They have two kids about 10 and 13 and a feisty little dog we have taken to calling el Diablo on account of the fact that it will mock charges us on a whim going for Mikes ankles and five minutes later is doing this adorable spin dance jumpy thing to get attention and love. It is quiet here and so beautiful, the flooring and walls are all hand done mosaics and everything is painted in such beautiful reds and teals and yellows. It is weathered of course, being just across from the ocean and having jungle all around, it takes a beating with sun, rain, mold, bugs etc. Everything smells and looks like it came from a second hand store, nothing here comes brand new I don't think, and if it did it would look very out of place I am sure.
The Caribbean is an amazing place, very different from the rest of the country so we are told, this is a wide spread sentiment that is a source of pride among the people who live here.
The first days we were here the waters were so calm and clear, I am so glad we decided to rent the snorkel gear during this beginning period. I have ocean fears but I managed to get out there and see some fish, it was really cool, and I think I'd do it again. Mike was so nice to hold my hand the whole time.The rest of the time has been spent laying on the beach, swimming in the ocean, drinking beer, eating organic foods and meeting as many people as our limited Spanish will allow. These last few days it has rained each afternoon or evening and the ocean has been much more vigorous. We splurged on ourselves and rented a scooter and drove out about 20km to Cahuita National Park for a full day of hiking along their trails of beaches and protected jungle areas. This area was pristine. We had to cross two small streams along the way and we saw so much wildlife. We saw Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, many types of incredible birds, insects, butterflies, a large colorful Iguana, and countless other smaller lizards. This trip was worth the bumpy roads and the $60 for the scooter for the day. We still have just less than a week left here before we leave and begin our journey inland to a different town which also happens to be called Puerto Viejo, and this is where Mike will run his race. His training has been going well since being off the trail and arriving in Costa Rica and he is acclimating well to this intensely different climate. If all goes well, he'll be a real contender. We are excited and anxious about everything yet to come.
Our eyes are wide and our hearts are open. As always thanks for reading and thanks for your love and support.
Until next time....
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