Our last weekend in in the Caribbean was over the Columbus Day holiday, which here is called Dia de La Raza. Which is the day of the race, as in the human race. Here they celebrate all the beautiful people of Costa Rica and there is no mention of Columbus (rightfully so). Ziggy Marley played a concert in town and people from all over the country filled up the beaches, they were grilling, camping, surfing, kayaking, and snorkeling, everyone was out. It was a little crazy but made for some great people watching and all the bars and restaurants were open, so it was a really fun weekend. We didn't go to the music fest, but heard from our new friend Kevin that it was a great time. We honestly didn't know it was going on, otherwise we probably would have gone.
It was a little stressful to say the least. We arrived in San Jose Thursday afternoon at the car rental location only to find the quote we'd been given was not really the actual price... like off by $2,000.00. Needless to say it was no longer an option and for the first time on this trip so far we were forced by the travel Gods to start thinking on our feet and had to make a new plan on the spot. We really needed a car for the race, not only was getting there by bus a logistical challenge, but also we were not going to be staying at the fancy lodge that was hosting the race, and so Mike really needed wheels to get himself to the start by 3:30 am the morning of the big day. After what felt like hours (but was total maybe one hour) of walking in the rain, me with high anxiety and Mike trying to keep his cool about the situation, we found a wonderful little local rental place that gave the cheapest price we could get. It still put us back way more than we had budgeted so we had to tap into our savings fund. In the end though it has all worked out, but man I was freaking, and we joked that it was a good thing we don't mind spending our saved money. Once that was settled we got in the car, buckled up, and headed into the jungle.
I haven't done a lot of international driving, not since Sigi and I drove from Germany to Italy which I can tell you was much like driving in the US. Central America however is another thing all together and San Jose is known as one of the worst places to drive in the world, so leaving the big city was an adventure all on its own. But Mike was made for this kind of driving I tell you what. All that zippy stealth driving he does back home really pays off here; you cannot be afraid to pass or be passed and motorcycles are allowed anywhere they fit regardless the direction they are heading so you gotta always be on your toes. Also when it gets dark here, it is not like back home, it gets pitch black and not gradually either, right around 5:30 everyday it goes from light to dark just as though someone is flipping a switch. Fewer street lights line the roads, there are rarely painted lines, road signs aren't really something they do here and also all the roads are much more narrow. The experience can cause the little hairs on your arms to stand straight up. But like I said Mike was born for it, he was hooting and ye-hawing and working that clutch of our little Nissan all the way to Sarapiqui, just loving life on the open road. And I will admit a road trip is always a good time, jamming the entire way to Costa Rican tunes and the occasional "Born in the USA" by the Boss (this song is always on at least one station, so weird).
When we arrived here in Sarapiqui, it felt so different. Our travel book described the town as having a "film noir " feel, which we totally vibed right away and it made us giggle. Like the coast, nothing here looks or feels very new, but the atmosphere is very different. Not as laid back, with many more people hustling and bustling all about and working a lot harder it seems. The streets are still always filled with life and music and fruits of all kinds, but here the people have places to go and things to get done. Our hotel is in the town center right across from the futbol pitch and we enjoy watching as we eat our breakfast when the players or kids are out in the mornings. But the back of the hotel is surrounded by jungle so the views from our balcony are gorgeous and the noises we hear are produced mostly by the bugs and birds living all around us. As you head out of the city center things begin to calm quickly; pineapple, strawberry, and coffee farms and cow pastures line the roadsides, and you can really begin to see all the richness of the land. We are in river country right now, and though we didn't have time to hit the rapids while we were here, we are not ruling it out as Costa Rica has many Rio options throughout the country for the adventurous traveler. Recreation is a huge industry here and you can see it more obviously as you leave the city and head only 5 or so kilometers out; kayaks, mountain bikes, rafts, and road bikes are all out in full force both outfitters and individuals, and the cool thing is that it is always in season. Class four rapids are seen year round, I think we both want to get out there so badly! The first couple days we just spent orienting ourselves with town, swimming in the hotel pool and laying low before the race on the 17th. We attended the pre race meeting Friday night at the Selva Verde Lodge and Mike left feeling the pre race jitters and of courses I did too. The jungle ain't no joke, and I always worry about him before and during and just after a race. The next day Mike was up well before the sun and left me to get my beauty sleep as he headed off to the start, I would meet him at the finish line about eight or nine hours later. I woke up slow that morning, went to breakfast at the hotel and read my book. I took a bath in the fancy tub in our room (we rarely do hotels when traveling, I had to get our money's worth lol), did a little yoga, and then hit the main drag of town for a small stroll to buy some water and snacks for while I waited at the finish line. I caught a cab and conversed quite well with the driver (and was feeling very proud of myself about this), I told him about Mike and the race and that I was from the US in Colorado in the mountains. He had been to Denver so that was a cool connection, and the fact that I understood what he was saying was a big deal for me. It takes a while for your ears to adjust to the sounds and tones and accents of another language, so even if you can speak and understand a bit, the first week or so it all sounds kinda like "wah wah wah". The fact that it is getting a bit easier is a huge relief and makes the trip so much more enriching. He dropped me at the finish line and I set myself up with a little picnic and my book and waited for Mike.
A couple hours passed and then I saw him, I knew after one second of looking at him to stop cheering and to pop up and go to him, I could tell things had not gone as planned. He was severely dehydrated and very hungry. He had made wrong turn about 5.5 hours earlier and I assume he was just glad to have found himself again. The course was poorly marked and we found out later he was not the only one who had gotten lost that day. He was disappointed, but on the flip side, he learned a lot and grew as runner from the experience. He always has the best attitude when it comes to those types of things. If it were me I would have cried like a baby and probably embarrassed myself by yelling at the race director, this is just one of many reasons he does these races and not me.
The next day was really great. We used the rental car and drove up up up to the Paos Volcano, a national park about an hour and a half away from town. We hiked up first to the active volcano's crater, it is often socked in with clouds but when we got up there it cleared and we had the chance to see it in all of its glory. The dark grays and blacks of the rocky mountain were so stark and contrasting next to the almost glowing sulfuric water inside. It was a sea foam greenish color with steam billowing out, just gorgeous. There are also lakes that we hiked to as well that are all part of the volcanic system. On the drive we passed so many strawberry farms and on the way home we stopped to buy some, we don't have strawberries in the states that taste this good, period. My mouth knows the flavor of strawberry, but it was like what, how can there be so much sweet goodness in just one tiny strawberry???? Seriously amazing. We also stopped at a beautiful waterfall just off the road as well. I was so happy to have a car, it made the journey so much more fun getting to stop wherever we wanted just to taste or smell or see something new. Just before reaching town we stopped at a roadside Soda for lunch. They raised Tilapia in their backyard and cooked it right up in front of us, the whole fish and served it to us with fried plantains and black beans and salad! In Costa Rica a Soda is a place where people go to eat and socialize. They usually only have one or two options and they are set up much like a counter at a diner or like a bar. They can be intimidating when your language skills aren't strong as it is not designed with the tourist in mind and often the proprietors don't speak English. People run them out of the sides of their homes off the roadsides most often or out of tiny shop fronts when you are in a bigger town. We had been to only one other that I can recall the morning we caught the bus to the Caribbean and it was too early for me to eat anything, but they are cheap and things are greasy and made with love. It really doesn't get more authentic. We were glad to get out of the hotel and spread our wings, it was a magical day.
Next we head off to Lake Arenal, which is situated under Costa Rica's most active volcano, it loves to show off and spit fire. We can't wait. We will do five days there, relaxing and enjoying all the natural beauty. On the way we may do some hot springs and we will go to a protected refuge for a short hike and then a stop in the Cheese City (locals keep saying we shouldn't miss it, so we shall see what it is all about, I do love me some queso fresco). We are staying at an AirBNB like we did in the Caribbean, the family is Dutch and own a wake boarding outfitter. I am not sure about wake boarding, but a SUP or canoe may be fun and affordable for a day or two, or some horseback riding (I can only hope). We will see what it brings.
Things have just been beyond gorgeous, I feel lucky to be here and can't wait to see more! As always thanks for reading and thanks for your love and support.
Sounds great sweetie,love reading and will forward to the people who don't Facebook,
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